What are perfumes made of? The main components of modern perfumery What expensive perfumes are made of

only based on whether they like its aroma or not. But perfumes, like cosmetics, are rarely universal. They are divided into groups, each of which has its own characteristics. According to the classification compiled at the beginning of the 20th century by leading French perfumers, all perfumes are divided into the following groups:

• Floral;
• Citrus;
• Ferns (fougeres);
• Chypre;
• Oriental (animalistic);
• Woody;
• Fruit;
• Ozone (oceanic).

A little later, in the middle of the 20th century, tobacco and leather aromas were added to this list, as well as specific culinary perfumes with the smells of coffee, whiskey, champagne, figs and other drinks and foods.

Floral scents

Perhaps this group is most popular among “summer type” women, especially blue-eyed blondes. Floral perfumes include fresh and sensual aromas with base notes , jasmine, narcissus, violet, mimosa and other fresh flowers. As a rule, perfumes of this group are suitable for day and evening, but you need to be careful with them, since the floral aroma in its pure form is very intense: a few extra drops, and it becomes too heavy and provocative, especially in hot weather.

Flower group perfumes are not recommended for use by young girls: these fragrances are addressed to accomplished women who are over 30 years old. Young Ladies are more likely to suit youth options such as floral-citrus or floral-fruity perfumes - they have a light, clear, fresh and attractive aroma.

Examples of popular floral perfumes: “Noa” and “Anais Anais” from Cacharel, “Delicious” and “DKNY 212” from Carolina Herrera, “Love of Pink” from Lacoste.

Citrus aromas (Hesperides)

Alluring citrus perfumes have no age restrictions. You can often hear citrus perfumes called “Hesperides”. They received this name in honor of the daughters of the ancient Greek god Hesper, who guarded the mysterious “golden apples” with magical properties - oranges - in the magic garden.

Fresh, subtle citrus aromas of lemon, bergamot, grapefruit, orange, tangerine are perfect for all women without exception, and especially for red-haired beauties, sophisticated and feminine. It should be noted that the perfumes of this group are an excellent choice for business people, both women and men.

It is believed that the discreet and unobtrusive citrus aroma attracts the interlocutor and contributes to success when concluding even very important transactions. Citrus perfumes belong to the daytime category. It is not customary to use them for evening “going out” and special events.

Popular citrus perfumes: “EauFraiche” from CristianDior, “Signoricci” from NinaRicci, “BrownSugar” from Fresh, “AcquaFiorentina” from Creed.

Fougere (fern) aromas

"Fern" is translated into French as "fougre". That's why this group of fragrances got its name. Mostly it includes perfumes with base notes of oak moss. Lavender is also a mandatory component in fougere perfumes. The group of fern perfumes is very extensive. Traditionally it is divided into aromatic greens (smell , for example), spicy (spice aromas), fruity, floral (geranium).

Fougere perfumes and eau de toilette are classified as “unisex” and are very popular with both men and women who love slightly tart, invigorating and illuminating scents. Fern perfumes are daytime, they go well with youth clothing styles and are suitable for active sports. For mature women, we can recommend aromatic perfumes with notes of oriental spices, but for young girls - aromatic fruit aromas or bouquets with light notes of bergamot and greenery.

Popular fern perfumes: “Nobile” from Gucci, “EgoistPlatinum” from Chanel, “CoolWaterWoman” from Davidoff, “Aztec” from YvesRocher.

Chypre group

Dynamic, rich chypre perfumes gained extraordinary popularity back in the mid-19th century. It is curious that chypre perfumes owe their name to the Greek island of Crete, where a special type of exotic Mediterranean oak moss grows, which is necessarily present in the base notes of all fragrances of this group. As a rule, the rich smells of moss are combined in perfume compositions with subtle citrus or floral notes, sometimes with the smells of fresh fruits and hot spices.

Chypre perfumes can be classified as universal, but they have more fans among men than among women. Representatives of the stronger sex can be offered magnificent chypre scents with notes of tobacco and suede, but for ladies - fresh chypre perfumes with aldehydic floral notes of jasmine, lily of the valley, rose, as well as perfumes with hints of bergamot and patchouli. Chypre perfumes are more suitable as an evening option for special occasions, but eau de toilette is an ideal choice of daytime perfume for every day.

Popular chypre perfumes: “Miss Dior 1947” by CristianDior, “Chance” by Chanel, “Yohji” by Yohji Yamamoto, “Essential” by Paloma Picasso.

Animal group

Animal perfumes are perfumes with base notes of animal oils. First of all, these include classic amber perfumes, in which strong base notes of amber prevail - a substance produced in the internal secretion glands of the sperm whale and which has a very rich and pleasant smell. Also in the group of animalistic scents are perfumes based on- a special, strong-smelling secretion produced by the glands of animals such as musk deer or beaver. Both amber and musk perfumes are bright, persistent, spicy, quite heavy and... very expensive, since the cost of a gram of natural amber and musk is many times higher than the cost of a gram of precious metals.

Almost all animalistic perfumes belong to the category of elite winter evening perfumes for mature women. It is highly not recommended to use perfumes of this group in the daytime, and especially in hot weather: under the influence of strong heat, amber and musk can change the smell far from for the better.

Examples of popular animalistic perfumes: “MagieNoire” from Lancome, “Poison” from CristianDior, “Wild Musk” from Coty.

Wood group

The popularity of woody perfumes is growing day by day. Magnificent forest aromas with base notes, sandalwood, , vetiver, cedar, fir, pine, juniper cannot leave anyone indifferent. Perfume and eau de toilette from the woody family for men are predominantly strong perfumes with a sharp and dry aroma. In collections for women, combined woody-citrus bouquets with a slightly sweet scent are most often found. Also for the fair sex, many perfume brands offer tart cedar-citrus compositions, unusually rich perfumes with basic woody-incense notes, delicate “liquor”-woody aromatic bouquets with top and middle fresh fruit notes.

Woody group perfumes mostly fall into the category of universal evening fragrances.

Examples of popular forest perfumes: Burberry "The Beat" from Burberry, "Armani Code" from Armani, "BluedeChanel" from Chanel.

Fruity group of perfumes

Fruit group perfumes are classic summer fragrances in a casual style, designed for romantic, gentle and self-confident women and girls who want to emphasize their sophisticated attractiveness. In the family of fruit perfumes, it is worth highlighting the fruity-floral subgroup: these are very fresh and delicate compositions with notes of raspberry, cranberry, melon, watermelon, green apple, pineapple, exotic flowers with light echoes of vanilla, tart cinnamon and tonka bean. There are a great many variations on the theme: almost all perfume brands produce them. Fruit eau de toilette belongs to the daytime category, but perfumes can also be used as an evening option.

Examples of popular fruit perfumes: “Funny” from Moschino, “Addict Shine” from CristianDior, “Tropiques” from Lancome.

Ozone group

Ozone perfumes are also called oceanic. They can be described in only two words - extraordinary freshness and purity of the endless expanses of the sea. Ozone perfumes are equally suitable for women of any age, but they sound especially attractive on young girls who want to fully emphasize the charm of their youth. Also, many perfume companies produce men's eau de toilette of the ozone group - they are addressed to slightly conservative representatives of the stronger sex who prefer very restrained, but at the same time deep aromas.

In perfume compositions, the ozone base is traditionally combined with floral notes of rose, bergamot, jasmine and citrus notes of bergamot and grapefruit.

Examples of popular ozone perfumes: “Ocean Lounge” from Escada, “Dune” from CristianDior, “Happy” from Clinique.

Aldehyde group

It makes sense to include synthetic perfume compositions, which are very widely represented on the modern market, into a separate group. They have practically no separate components: chemical components, when mixed with each other, create a wide variety of aromatic compositions with original and sometimes unique shades.

Opinions about aldehydic perfumes can be found very different - from enthusiastic to sharply negative. We can say for sure that perfumes of the aldehyde group are expressive, rich and durable. Therefore, it is undoubtedly worth paying attention to them, especially for women who are looking for non-standard and slightly extravagant compositions. By the way, one of the first aldehyde scents created by perfumers was the famous “Chanel No. 5,” Marilyn Monroe’s favorite perfume. Comments are unnecessary here.

We really hope that this article will help you choose and buy perfume for yourself or as a gift.

Enjoy excellent and refined aromas and be unsurpassed every day!

We are accustomed to the primitive division of aromas into warm/floral and cold/fresh. Someone will more seriously divide the characteristics of perfume smells into three notes:

• Fresh or ozone;
• Oriental or velvet;
• Natural or floral.

Perfumers believe that a good perfume combines all three notes. But in reality, everything is much more complicated and interesting.

Main groups of aromas

It has always been difficult for an ordinary person to determine what exactly he likes in this or that type of perfume. There is a huge variety of smells in the world, unique and inimitable, but still many of them have common, similar shades - notes. In order to systematize knowledge, it was invented to combine aromas into groups and give them a description. The classification of odors was developed in the 1990s in France.

Then perfumers counted seven notes of the main types of fragrances:

1. floral;
2. citrus;
3. chypre;
4. ferns;
5. forest;
6. leather;
7. amber/oriental.

Modern technologies have greatly expanded our understanding of perfumery. It became possible to combine aromas from seven main groups, and new families of odors appeared. Let's look at them all in turn.

What will be the most popular this winter, what perfume notes can warm you up in the cold and add charm to a woman’s winter look?

Oriental, Oriental or Amber

Rich, sugary, warm and juicy interweaving of aromas of oriental spices (cloves, vanilla, cinnamon, amber), floral (jasmine or tuberose), animal aromas and incense create a thick, sensual and passionate bouquet.

Such a rich and luxurious scent is not for a young girl; it should be worn by an adult or mature, bright and beautiful lady. The eastern category is more typical for women's perfume. There is not a large selection of men's perfumes in this category.

Tip: Use oriental perfume when going out together with an evening dress and appropriate makeup.

Classic oriental fragrances are “Joyous” from the British Boadicea The Victorious, “Magie Noire” by Lancome, “Opium” by Yves Saint Laurent or “Poison” by Christian Dior.

Water

Oceanic aquatic (marine) categories of odors began to be created only 25 years ago. They are distinguished by the clear, invigorating and fresh sound of cool water. Initially, aquatic aromas consisted only of natural extracts of freesia, citrus fruits and green apples, but with the development of technology for synthesizing natural odors using artificially produced molecules, notes of sea salt, water and fresh air appeared. Today, in order to create the effect of a sea or aquatic scent, notes of cucumber, water lily, honeysuckle, watermelon and grapes are added.

Perfume that imitates water in its pure form is rarely used. This category of fragrances is added to reveal more complex natural floral or fruity perfumes. A good example would be “Cool Waterot” from the Swiss company Davidoff.

The aquatic type of perfume is suitable for almost everyone, but it predominates in men's perfumery (for the category of young and energetic people).

Woody

This category of fragrances consists mainly of rich woody notes - cedar, sandalwood, juniper, pine, vetivelia. To fully reveal the revitalization of perfumes, they are complemented with other shades, for example, citrus notes (lemon, lime, grapefruit) or floral scents (iris, lavender, patchouli).

Wood spirits are depth and tranquility. Fragrances with a woody note are most often created for men. English Laundry (Britain) presents one of the exemplary lines of scents for women and men of this type - “Arrogant”. It is perfect for people over 30, confident and balanced, will be appropriate in any environment and will create a good working atmosphere around them.

Ozone

Fragrances in this category appeared not so long ago. Thanks to the development of the industry of artificially synthesizing molecules to create odors, it has become possible to separate this type into a separate category.

A spectacular, light, fresh, almost weightless fluid of ozone, similar in sensations to the coolness after rain, the air of an approaching thunderstorm or the pure freshness of a mountain breeze. This effect, in addition to the effects created in the laboratory, is complemented by natural citrus, rose, mint chords, as well as notes of green tea. This unusual energetic, sparkling and slightly romantic scent is suitable for young people of any gender. However, finding a pure ozone type of perfume will not be so easy.

Company S.T. Dupont from France has created an excellent example of an ozone perfume - “Essence Pure Homme”.

Fougere or Fern

“Fougere” and “fern” in this category are rather a metaphor. It is a combination of vegetal, tart notes combined with the subtle aromas of flowers and trees. Bergamot, oak moss, lavender flowers, patchouli, coumarin and incense complement well the fougere perfume.

The Italian company that produces cosmetics and perfumes Bottega Verde has created an exemplary fern perfume “UOMO-Madera Marina”. It is ideal for athletes and travelers.

It is believed that fougere perfumes are more suitable for males. In women's lines, this type is combined with woody and spicy families.

Green or Herbal

This category is distinguished by the bitter, rich taste of fresh herbs. It could be the smell of freshly cut grass, autumn hay or fallen leaves. They are often complemented with aromas of moss, flowers, trees, and citrus accents. This scent is more designed to open up and refresh the floral, woody and citrus categories. It is rarely found as a separate type of perfume.

An example of green type perfume is “Green Tea Intense”, which is produced by the American perfume company Elizabeth Arden.

Weightless, light herbal scents are suitable for girls and boys from 14 to 25 years old for every day. Such perfumes do not cause irritation and will be appropriate at school, at work, and at dinner.

Leather

This is one of the rarest types of perfume. Non-standard ingredients and accents create difficulties in their release. Despite the fact that it is now at the peak of popularity and many manufacturers are developing perfumes based on it, it is very difficult to find such a smell on the shelves in the women's department. And in the men's departments and on shelves with unisex fragrances, leather type perfumes can be found in combination with the smell of dry tobacco and subtle floral notes. The category of leather scents goes well with fire smoke, birch tar, moss, juniper and charred wood.

A company from Argentina, La Martina, produces “Bayres Hombre” - an excellent example of leather perfume. Such a fragrance can be purchased by a bright, strong-willed, self-confident and independent woman who will not be intimidated by the complex composition of the fragrance.

In addition, this perfume will be a wonderful gift for a middle-aged man who is strong, courageous and purposeful.

The leather category is almost never combined with other families, since the dry, natural and specific smell is itself unique. This type of perfume is best suited for an evening reception, dinner or going to the theater.

Musk

Musk is an aphrodisiac that animals (roe deer, muskrat, beavers, deer) use in life to attract the opposite sex.

Initially, it was extracted in its natural form from real animal glands. But today, two other types of musky scents are more popular: floral and synthetic. These types are more pleasant and also less expensive to produce. Plant musk is produced from galbanum, hibiscus and ambrette flowers. Synthetic fragrance - chemically in special laboratories.

This category was created to complement and highlight other types of perfumes. The musky scent perfectly emphasizes floral and woody aromas, giving them sensuality and a soft sound. French perfumers from Montale created “Musk to Musk” - a perfect example of a musky type of perfume. Manufacturers consider musky scents more suitable for women.

Spicy

It is not easy to find the category of spicy aromas unchanged. More often it is used with other types of perfume to create a rich composition. The basis of this category are flowers and spices that have a bright, spicy smell: ginger, cloves, cinnamon. This type goes well with flower and tree families, as well as oriental scents.

Spicy perfumes are suitable for people over 30; women should choose a combination with oriental and floral notes, and men – with woody ones.

Citrus

The citrus fruit category is distinguished by its bright, invigorating, slightly bitter aromas. To create them, natural essences are used, which are extracted from the fruits and flowers of lemon trees, pomelo, orange, bergamot, lime, etc. Perfumers use this family when creating unisex perfumes. Citrus scents look great alone and in combination with other categories.

Tip: Citrus aroma is universal. It is suitable for almost any person and will give a boost of vivacity, freshness and energy during the warm season.

The Italian perfume company Acqua di Parma produces a win-win citrus scent “Colonia Assoluta”, which is most often chosen by young people for every day.

Gourmet

Chocolate, cocoa butter, bees' honey and wax, fresh milk, coconut flakes, sweets, ice cream - all this is the basis of gourmet scents. Such cloying and sweet, appetite-stimulating aromas are rarely used unchanged. Floral or oriental categories soften and complicate the gourmand type of perfume well.

Such sweet chords are designed for a female audience with a sweet tooth. In men's perfumery they are used only in combination with woody, floral, spicy or leather scents.
The American perfume company Roxana Illuminated Perfume, which focuses on the naturalness of perfume production, releases a perfect example of the gourmand scent “Figure: Cerise”.

Floral

The floral category is the most common among all scents. Flower extracts of freesia, orchid, narcissus, rose, lavender, light or rich, are beautiful both on their own and in combination with any other categories of fragrances.

Floral scents are suitable for any time of day. They are able to emphasize the uniqueness and femininity of their owner. In men's perfumery, floral notes refresh and add thickness to the main aroma.

Fruit

These are primarily mono-aromas of a wide variety of fruits, as well as multi-fruit mixtures. These notes are best combined with floral, woody, aromatic and aquatic aromas. Fruity scents are more suitable for women, although they are also used in men's perfumes.

Chypre

Bergamot, oak bark and moss are the basis of chypre scents. These are always slightly contrasting citrus and fresh perfumes with notes of greenery, wood and flowers. In combination with other categories of fragrances, they are used in both men's and women's fragrance categories.

Examples of fragrances from this category are “Miss Dior” by Christian Dior. Perfume with a chypre note is suitable for businessmen and simply sociable people.

Exotic

They are separated from floral and fruit varieties mainly for marketing purposes. Unusual components, extracts of exotic fruits and flowers, non-standard combinations with other categories create an exotic type of perfume.

Fragrances such as “Folavril” by Annick Goutal are most often worn by bright, unusual, extraordinary and daring women.

Aldehydic

Thanks to the development of chemistry, a new category of fragrances based on synthetic compounds has recently emerged. Aldehydes allow you to create absolutely any odors and mix them with each other. Such production is much cheaper and simpler than natural production and can greatly expand the perfumery market.

Unique perfumery - creating for a lady her unique smell. Escentric molecules will help you become the owner of the only fragrance in the world.

Notes in fragrance descriptions

A good aroma consists of several “notes”. To describe the smell, you need to apply it and wait for them all to open (this takes about 10-15 minutes):

1. The first step is the top note. This is the very first impression of the scent and lasts less than a minute. The top note evaporates as soon as we open the perfume bottle. It is needed to prepare the sense of smell for the perception of the main aroma.
2. The second step is the heart note. It occurs instantly, after the first, when the perfume begins to interact with human skin. The heart note usually uses the most expensive and difficult-to-volatile substances.
3. The third stage is the base note. This is the long lasting scent that you will wear all day. It usually opens 8-10 minutes after application to the skin. The third note helps the note of the second stage to open and emphasize the temperament and sophistication of the aroma.

The correct combination, subtlety and uniformity of all three notes determines the quality of the perfume, its durability and unique sound that will develop and accompany you all day.

Aroma concentration

There are four types of aromas depending on their stability and intensity:

1. Perfume - the strongest concentration of odor is 20-30%. Use in the evening. Apply to places where you can feel the pulse - wrist, temples, behind the ears, and so on.
2. Eau de parfum – concentration 14-25%. This type of perfume is used during the daytime, and is applied two to three times (lasts from 4 to 5 hours) on clothes and body skin.
3. Toilet water – 10-20%. It is used in the morning or on weekends. It is not customary to apply eau de toilette to the skin; you just need to spray a little item of clothing before going out.
4. Cologne is a light scent. It is usually applied in the morning (for men after shaving) to the skin directly with your hands with light movements.

How to choose perfume

If you have to explore a rich assortment of scents, use a special piece of paper. When you have already determined an approximate list of scents you like, take your time. Buy a few samples to “wear” the scent on yourself for a few days, or lightly spritz your wrist area with the scent you like and leave the store.

To fully develop the scent, the perfume needs to spend at least an hour on your skin.

It is impossible to choose the right perfume for yourself based on the scent from another person. In the store you can only smell the first notes. The unique aroma of perfume reveals itself gradually on the skin and is what you will wear all day. Besides, there are always too many distracting smells in perfume departments.

Applying perfume

Ideally, you need to have three different jars with the same scent:

• In the morning, experts recommend applying eau de toilette.
• Eau de parfum should be carried with you in your purse and used 2-3 times a day (every four hours).
• If you have a gala dinner in the evening, apply perfume before the event.

Most often, it is recommended to apply perfume to the pulse zones (the bends of the legs and arms, temples, neck, area behind the ears); many recommend lightly sprinkling the hair or body under clothes with perfume.

But the most important condition for proper application is to use the aroma after a bath, when the body is still warm and damp.

Perfume by season

It is very important to use perfume according to the weather and mood. In winter you always want warmth and comfort - this will be provided by thick chypre and gourmand aromas. But in the summer, such perfumes may be too intrusive and strong. In warm summers, it is more appropriate to use light floral and citrus aromas, which are lost in the cold and are almost not felt.

Spirits and others

Everyone knows how irritating a strong and pungent foreign smell can be to others. It is necessary to be able to separate an evening reception from a trip on public transport.

Tip: Remember that not every scent is appropriate for work or a business meeting. Choose your fragrance responsibly so as not to spoil the impression.

Experts say that the main thing in smell is harmony, not intensity. At work, it’s good to use unisex eau de toilette or other neutral, unobtrusive scents. Some psychologists also claim that a woman striving to climb the career ladder needs to wear men's perfume.

But on a date, you should avoid perfumes that demonstrate the independence and pride of their owner (extracts of bergamot, moss, bergamot lavender and bay leaf). On the contrary, it is necessary to emphasize your tenderness and sensuality with the help of light fruity or floral scents.

Perfume and hair color

Some perfumers associate perfume scents with hair color:

• Bitter and fresh floral, violet, mimosa, lavender, citrus or cyclamen scents for blondes.
• Spicy and sweetish scents of acacia, honeysuckle and gardenia for brunettes.
• For girls with black hair, scents of tuberose, jasmine, lily or sandalwood are suitable.
• For brown-haired women - the unusual scent of hyacinth, as well as perfumes from the chypre category.

Perfume and clothing

There are a number of rules according to which:

• A formal suit is combined with “cold” smells.
• Extravagant outfit - with exotic, fruity and floral scents.
• For a sporty style of clothing, unisex scents are best suited.

Perfume series

• Bath oil/foam;
• Gel/soap for washing;
• Cream, oil or lotion for the skin;
• Unscented antiperspirant, or better yet, a deodorant that matches the perfume.

Such a set of cosmetics with a single aroma will completely eliminate the “merging” of perfumes with foreign odors of cosmetics and will create an intense and at the same time light aroma on your body for as long as possible.

Fragrances of the zodiac signs

• Aries is well suited for perfumes with amber, poppy, jasmine and patchouli;
• Lotus, lavender, bergamot are suitable for Taurus;
• Geminis are better off choosing notes of sandalwood, violet, strawberry, and pine;
• Cancer - sandalwood, jasmine or poppy flowers, amber and lotus;
• When choosing perfume, Leos should pay attention to the aromas of incense, amber, jasmine and coconut oil;
• For virgins - patchouli, mira, strawberry, rose;
• For a good day, Libra will infuse lavender, sandalwood, pine, rose or jasmine;
• Scorpios need notes of rose, lavender, amber and jasmine flowers;
• Sagittarius should choose scents with amber or patchouli;
• And Capricorn will like rose, sandalwood, pine and lotus;
• Aquarius will be comfortable in perfumes with notes of patchouli, lime, strawberry, sandalwood or rose;
• Pisces need a scent with lavender, poppy, rose or violet.

Perfume storage

Contrary to popular belief, perfumes do not last long. Therefore, experts do not recommend buying large quantities at once, especially if you prefer to use several brands at the same time.

Tip: If you are going to store perfume for a long time, keep it in the refrigerator.

Perfume should be stored in a dark place, preferably in a box. The tighter the bottle is closed and the cooler the room, the longer your favorite scent will retain its freshness and quality.

Women's perfume is a perfume product, the composition of which consists of a combination of several aromas. The composition includes components such as water, alcohol, essential oils and various extracts.

Perfumes are characterized by high odor persistence: the concentration of aromatic substances is in the range of 15-30%, while in eau de parfum this figure does not exceed 20%, and in eau de parfum - 10%.

Types, aromas and composition of women's perfumes

By purpose:

• daytime;
• everyday;
• evening.

According to the quality of the extracts included in the composition:

• Luxury perfumes. Contains exclusively natural ingredients.
• Class "A". The use of synthetic or synthesized ingredients is allowed within 10%.
• Class "B". Semi-synthetic or synthetic raw materials are used for the manufacture of licensed copies of luxury perfumes, which are produced by Turkey and Syria, the United Arab Emirates, Russia and Canada, Ukraine and Sweden.
• Class "C". Inexpensive synthetic extracts are used.

Floral

To create floral perfumes, extracts are used:

• violets,
• roses,
• carnations,
• lilies,
• lily of the valley,
• mimosas,
• gardenias;
• narcissus,
• jasmine, etc.

Flower extracts give the perfume freshness and sweetness; floral perfumes can be used throughout the year.

Citrus

To create citrus aromatic compositions, pomace is used:

• lime,
• orange,
• grapefruit,
• lemon,
• tangerine,
• bergamot.

Citrus perfumes are characterized by lightness and freshness. Such perfumes are appropriate to use both in winter and summer, for special events.

Chypre

The basis of chypre perfumes are:

• patchouli;
• bergamot;
• sage;
• oak moss;
• resin;
• incense.

Chypre perfume for women is a winter perfume. The aroma combines revitalizing freshness and a delicate note of sweetness.

Greens

Green perfumes contain essential oils of leaves and herbal plants combined with notes of bergamot, lavender, lemon, coumarin, juniper. Characterized by an invigorating, cool aroma.

Fougere

Fougere aroma compositions are distinguished by astringency and the presence of a slight bitterness. The dominant substance is synthesized coumarin. The complementary compositional components are:

• geranium,
• lavender,
• tree moss,
• bergamot.

Floriental

The floriental perfume family is a subspecies of floral compositions. The composition is led by the scent of sandalwood, amber, musk, apricot, combined with exotic floral notes of jasmine, osmanthus, gardenia, freesia, and orange blossom.

Fruit

The key component of the perfume is the essence of fruit. To create fruit perfumes, extracts from pineapples, apricots, apples, papaya, and citrus fruits are used. The composition of the perfume may include notes of wild berries - blackberries, strawberries, as well as floral scents.

Marine

Synthetic fragrances that imitate the smell of the sea, mountain air, and ocean breeze. Sea perfume gives a feeling of coolness.

Amber

Amber or oriental perfumes contain exotic notes and are characterized by a thick, sweet scent. Suitable for temperamental women. Amber perfumes are based on resinous substances, essential oils and oriental spices.

Spicy

The basis of the spicy composition:

• ginger;
• carnation;
• cardamom;
• cinnamon;
• pepper.

Spicy perfumes are appropriate to use in the cool season; the aromatic product gives a feeling of tenderness and warmth.

Aldehydic

Aldehydes, which are the basis for perfumes of the aldehyde family, are synthesized odors created exclusively with the help of chemical compounds. When heated, aldehydes open up and enhance aromas, making the scent richer and brighter.

Leather

The leather perfume contains birch bark extract, juniper oil, and tobacco notes. The perfume recreates the smell of leather, suede, tobacco smoke and burnt wood.

Woody

The woody family includes scents created from the essential oils of musk, cedar wood, iris, rose bush, and myrtle. Woody perfumes are characterized by astringency and pungency. Suitable for representatives of the fairer sex who love men's perfumes.

The main advantages of perfumes are:

• high concentration of aromatic oils and extracts;
• odor persistence;
• economical consumption (just apply a couple of drops of perfume to the skin).

The only drawback of perfumes, in comparison with other types of perfumed products for women, is the high cost.

How to choose women's perfume

The aroma of any perfume consists of three notes:

• primary;
• cardiac;
• basic.

The opening note is the scent that is felt immediately after applying the scented liquid to the skin.

The top smell of perfume consists of quickly evaporating components and, as a rule, is felt for no more than 10 minutes.

The “heart” note opens 10-15 minutes after applying the perfume and is heard for one to two hours.

Base notes are the final scent of a perfume, which appears after the composition comes into contact with the skin and is felt for several hours. When choosing perfume, you should not rush; it is better to wait until the perfume reveals its base notes.

To correctly evaluate the smell of a perfume:

• Spray your favorite perfume onto the blotter, wait a couple of minutes and inhale the aroma.
• If you like the aroma of the perfume, sprinkle a couple of drops on your wrist, wait a while and inhale the smell again.
• You shouldn’t smell more than three perfumes during one trip to the store.

A bottle of perfume can serve as a kind of hint for women when choosing perfume. Lovers of herbal and sea aromatic compositions should pay attention to transparent bottles with a bluish or greenish tint.

Floral and fruity compositions are often sold in bottles of pink, yellow, red or lilac. Dark-colored containers tend to contain woody, bitter aromas.

Before purchasing women's perfume, carefully examine the packaging:

• packaging of high-quality perfumes is made of thick white cardboard;
• the cellophane wrapper should not be damaged or wrinkled;
• perfume packaging must contain information about the country of origin and a barcode;
• The expiration date of the perfume must be indicated on the packaging.

When choosing perfume products, it is important to consider:

• woman's age,
• season,
• purpose of perfume.

Selection of fragrance by age:

• The best choice for young girls under the age of 25 are simple floral-fruity scents with citrus notes.
• For women in the middle age group from 25 to 45, perfumes from the chypre family are ideal - sweet aromatic compositions based on patchouli, rosewood, and sage.
• The ideal choice for mature ladies is the tart and rich aromas of the aldehyde family.

Select by time of year:

• Summer - the best choice is light, refreshing aromatic compositions with fruity, floral or citrus notes.
• Autumn – rich tart aromas with spicy notes of spices and citruses.
• Winter - warm sweetish smells with bitterness, belonging to the oriental group.
• Spring - the best option would be invigorating and refreshing fruit and floral compositions with green notes.

Selection by purpose:

• The best option for everyday use is a light, unobtrusive and fresh scent.
• Ideal daytime aromatic compositions contain floral aromas, citrus notes and a light vanilla scent.
• An evening perfume should have a rich, sweetish trailing aroma.

How to use

• Spray perfume onto a clean body after taking a warm shower. Moisturized skin will retain the scent of perfume longer.
• If the perfume product is equipped with a sprayer, then to apply the perfume, move the bottle 1-2 centimeters away from the body.

If you don’t have a spray bottle, press your finger to the neck and turn the bottle over, remove a few drops from the container and apply to the skin with light movements, do not rub the perfume into the skin.

• Do not overuse perfume, apply perfume in the morning, and if necessary, add a couple of drops of perfume to your skin throughout the day.
• Do not apply perfume to the armpits to mask the smell of sweat.

To make the scent last longer, apply perfume to certain areas of the body:

• on the elbow bends;
• on the pulsating vein on the wrist;
• on the neck;
• behind the ears;
• on the chest;
• under the knees.

It is enough to choose two places to apply perfume.

• Perfume products must be stored at room temperature.
• Avoid direct sunlight on the bottle.
• Do not store perfume near heat sources - electrical appliances.
• High humidity negatively affects the condition of perfume, so you should not store perfume in the bathroom.
• Perfume products can only be stored in an upright position.
• Make sure the perfume lid is tightly closed.
• If perfume is used very rarely, store the product in.
• Do not use spoiled perfume, such perfume can cause allergic reactions. The following factors indicate that the perfume has become unusable: the color of the perfume has changed, the perfume has thickened, and sediment has appeared at the bottom of the bottle.

Manufacturers of women's perfumes

Armand Basi perfumes contain woody ingredients and notes of Mediterranean freshness. To create collections, Armand Basi developers use natural aromatic components.

Perfume is sold in stylish bottles and packaging, which are distinguished by clear geometric lines. A characteristic feature of the Armand Basi brand is the release of perfumes in pairs - for women and men.

The British company, specializing in tailoring outerwear, launched the production of perfume products in 1981. Perfumes for women contain floral and fruity compositions.

The individuality of Burberry perfume products is also emphasized by the design of the bottles. All bottles contain the famous cage, which indicates that they belong to the famous British brand.

Today, the Burberry perfume line includes more than 30 fragrances, the most famous products:

• Burberry Weekend is an evening perfume ideal for women aged 20-26 and 35-45 years. Top notes are represented by a floral composition of hyacinth, cyclamen, mignonette, framed by the scents of mandarin and sage.

The heart notes of the perfume are a fruity-floral combination of peach, nectarine, iris and rosehip. Base notes reveal the aroma of sandalwood, cedar and musk.

• Burberry Touch - the product belongs to the family of floral-green fragrances, it is a warm winter perfume. Top notes include blackberry, cranberry, blackcurrant and orange combined with rose oil and red pepper.

Heart notes are peony, lily, raspberry, jasmine, lily of the valley, peach and tuberose. Base notes are green almond, oak moss, vanilla, tonka bean and white cedar.

• Burberry Brit is a floral and fruity aromatic composition. The top of the perfume pyramid is represented by the aroma of tangerine and pineapple leaves, yuzu and lychee.

Heart notes are peach blossom, peony and pear. The base of the pyramid is represented by the smells of white musk and light wood.

The Bvlgari women's perfume line includes five series:

• Goldea is a series of perfumes with an oriental floral composition, the main note of the perfume is musk, complemented by the freshness of bergamot, the sweetness of raspberries, the tartness of jasmine and the spice of ylang-ylang.

The composition of the Goldea series is complemented by notes of patchouli and Egyptian papyrus.

• Jasmin Noir is an amber aroma composition with floral and woody notes, created based on the jasmine flower.
• Omnia is a series of exotic feminine fragrances, the composition includes a cocktail of various components - nutmeg, cinnamon, cardamom, saffron, cloves and other spices, white chocolate, pepper and sandalwood, lotus flowers and tangerine.
• Aqwa Divina is a series of fresh fragrances filled with the scent of sea salt crystals combined with notes of bergamot, magnolia, red ginger, and beeswax.
• The Classics is a series of classic floral perfumes.

The Chanel brand is a legendary French company with a century-old history. Today, the catalog of the world-famous brand includes more than a hundred aromatic compositions. One of the most popular products of the Chanel fashion house is perfume number five.

Chanel No. 5 is an aldehydic perfume with floral notes of jasmine, lily of the valley and rose; the fragrant composition also includes sandalwood, vanilla, lemon, bergamot and amber.

No less popular perfume products of the brand:

• Coco Mademoiselle is a floral composition of May rose, jasmine and Florentine iris.
• Chanel Chance is a perfume that first appeared in the Chanel brand product line in 2003. The compositions are based on white musk, amber patchouli, pink pepper and iris, jasmine, vetiver, vanilla and hyacinth, pineapple and citrus, cedar.

Today there are three modifications of Chanel Chance perfume - Classic, Fraiche and Tendre. Chanel Classic is a light, refreshing fragrance designed for women under 30 years of age.

Chanel Fraiche is a perfume for respectable business women. Chanel Tendre is a delicate fruity-floral scent.

• Chanel Allure is a fragrant product based on citron and mandarin, diluted with oriental notes of magnolia, jasmine, honeysuckle, water lily and May rose, combined with notes of vanilla and vetiver.

Today, Christian Dior perfume products rank fourth in the world in terms of sales in this segment. The company's line includes more than 100 fragrances.

The Dior scent collection contains perfumes for both sophisticated ladies and young girls. Perfume from a well-known brand is characterized by a persistent, memorable scent.

The Christian Dior perfume house catalog includes several series of women's perfumes:

• Dior Cruise Collection – a group of fougere fragrances;
• Dior Addict Collection – a collection of oriental floral compositions;
• Dior Passage Collection - a series of floral perfumes;
• Dior J`Adore Collection – a group of fruity and floral aromatic compositions;
• Les Creations de Monsieur Dior – collection of floral arrangements.

The company is the founder of the mono-fragrance fashion. Demeter Fragrance Library perfumes have a clearly defined scent.

The American company's collection includes more than 200 extraordinary scents: perfume with the scent of strawberry ice cream, laundry, earth, thunderstorm, coffee, waffles, dust, funeral home, green grass, and more.

To produce mono-fragrances, Demeter Fragrance Library uses environmentally friendly natural ingredients. Artificial dyes, synthetic binders and emulsifiers are not used in perfumes.

The company Escada, specializing in sewing high-quality and sophisticated, but affordable clothing, released its first fragrance in 1990. Today, the Escada perfume line includes several series of perforated and eau de toilette:

• Escada Magnetism is a sensual, sophisticated fragrance that includes black currant, rose, coconut and caramel.
• Especially Escada is a bright perfume with a floral tint, the base component is musk, diluted with the aroma of rose and pear.
• Escada Joyful is a light, feminine scent based on honeycomb, pink peony and blackcurrant sherbet.

Givenchy is a well-known company in the world of fashion, cosmetics and perfumes. The fashion house Givenchy released its first perfume for women in 1957. Today the line of women's fragrances is represented in the company's catalog in six collections:

• L`atelier de Givenchy - the collection consists of ten bright exotic scents that evoke associations with the fashion creations of the Givenchy fashion house.
• Play - consists of two floral-woody perfumes with fruity notes.
• Eaudemoiselle is one of the new perfumes in the Givenchy line, created in 2010. Today the Eaudemoiselle collection is represented by one fruity-floral scent.

• Dahlia - the series includes the floral aroma Dahlia Noir, the floral chypre Dahlia Divin, the woody floral Dahlia Noir Eau de Toilette and the floral oriental Dahlia Divin Le Nectar de Parfum.
• Very Irresistible is a series of romantic, sweetish floral and fruity fragrances.
• Ange ou Demon is a legendary collection of chypre floral fragrances.

The French trading house Hermes released its first fragrance in 1950. The debut perfume in the “unisex” style became a new milestone in the history of the company. Today, the women's perfume series of the Hermes brand includes more than thirty fragrances.

The most prominent representatives of the Hermes trading house perfume collection are:

• Hermes 24 Faubourg - the product appeared in the Hermes line in 1995 and received wide recognition among women; its rich floral-chypre aroma was awarded five perfume Oscars.
• Eau des Merveilles is a light fragrance for young romantic women, the composition is based on orange and lemon combined with Indonesian and pink pepper, cedar, vetiver, resin, oak extract and amber.

A special feature of the aroma is the 100% absence of floral components.

• Hermes Amazone is a perfume created in 1974 and which has not lost its popularity today. Hermes Amazone belongs to the group of aldehydic fragrances; the composition contains floral, woody and fruity notes.

Perfume from the famous brand Hugo Boss has been represented on the perfume market since 1997. The line of women's fragrances from Hugo Boss includes several series:

• Hugo Woman is a sophisticated and elegant fragrance belonging to the fruity-floral family. The composition is based on jasmine, lily, melon, green apple, cyclamen and papaya, with base notes of vanilla and sandalwood.
• Runway Edition is a series of floral trail scents, which consists of three perfumes - the classic evening Nuit, the light everyday Jour and the spring-summer Ma Vie.
• Boss Orange – floral-oriental mesmerizing aromas.

The fruity note of the perfume is represented by a sweet apple combined with musk, the floral composition is formed by jasmine and neroli, the base composition consists of the aroma of sandalwood, vanilla and olive tree.

• Boss Nuit is a subtle and elegant fragrance that harmoniously combines the fruity sweetness of peach, aldehyde, the fragrance of jasmine, violet and white roses, woody notes of sandalwood and oakmoss.

Kenzo

The Japanese company Kenzo opened the production of perfume products in 1987; today the perfume line includes more than a hundred fragrances for women and men. The Kenzo women's collection is represented by the following fragrances:

• Madli Kenzo is an incredible combination of orange blossom and pink pepper, complemented by the scent of rose and heliotrope, vanilla, musk and cedar. Incense brings a magical, mysterious charm to the aroma composition.
• Kenzo Amour is a floral-fruity romantic aroma composition.
• Kenzo Jungle is a spicy aroma bouquet for confident women, the aromatic composition is represented by a combination of components such as mandarin and patchouli, cumin, cardamom and exotic mango.

• Kenzo Flower is a series of floral aromatic compositions; the line of perfumes uses rose, peony, lilac, cherry, pear, freesia, and jasmine flowers as heart notes.
• L`eau Kenzo is an invigorating and refreshing aromatic composition created by combining white lotus flower with juicy peach, wrapped in notes of white musk and cedar.

The perfume line of the French brand Lacoste includes more than twenty products.

Each scent has its own individual character; to create the basis of compositions, French perfumers of the Lacoste brand use sandalwood, hibiscus flowers, freesia or jasmine, and white musk.

Lacoste perfumes for women are characterized by a long-lasting scent, an invigorating and sensual aroma. Most of the collection of women's perfumes belong to the floral-fruity group of fragrances.

The French company Lancome specializes in the production of luxury perfumes.

The first line of perfumes was released in 1935, the collection consisted of five fragrances; today the Lancome perfume series includes a wide selection of fragrant compositions for women of different ages.

The company's products can be recognized by the characteristic logo in the form of a rose, which adorns all bottles of women's perfumes.

Popular products of the Lancome perfume series are:

• Miracle Lancome floral collection;
• Tresor Lancome collection of oriental gourmet fragrances;
• women's perfume with oriental floral notes Magie Lancome;
• Floral green fragrance Climat Lancome.

Versace is an Italian company founded in 1978, specializing in the creation of fashion collections of clothing, exquisite accessories, luxury perfumes and other luxury goods.

Today, the line of products for women from the Versace fashion house is represented by the following perfumes:

• Versace Bright Crystal is a floral-fruity composition with notes of musk.
• Versace Bright Crystal Absolu is an updated version of the previous perfume, enriched with the scent of raspberry, lotus flower and peony.
• Versace Wellov Diamont is a Mediterranean aromatic bouquet whose components are musk, benzoin, pear sorbet, osmanthus and jasmine.

• Versace Wellov Diamont Intense is an improved version of the Yellow Diamond perfume.
• Versace Eros Pour Femme is a delicious aromatic bouquet woven from a combination of lemon and jasmine with forest aromas, complemented by the taste of pomegranate, bergamot, and peony petals.
• Versace Oud Oriental is an oriental spicy bouquet of bitter orange, spicy black pepper, neroli, patchouli, saffron and cardamom, framed by notes of incense.
• Versace Couture is a couture perfume series consisting of four fragrances.

Favorite eau de toilette is an important element of a modern girl’s wardrobe. On the dressing tables of Parisian women there are luxurious bottles containing enchanting scents. Many of them strive to put together an individual collection of perfumes - after all, expensive eau de toilette from premium brands can instantly improve their mood and give them self-confidence.

Choosing the perfect eau de toilette is a pleasant experience, which, however, can sometimes be confusing. Indeed, it is very important to choose “your” scent, which will not get boring after a short time. Standing in a perfume store, it can be difficult to decide which of these beautiful bottles will be the best decoration for a woman’s image. Our article will help you understand the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum and which scent is better - chypre or floral.

What is the difference between eau de toilette and eau de parfum?

In order to figure out what is more durable - eau de toilette or eau de parfum, you need to know the classification of perfumed products. This information will certainly come in handy when choosing the best perfume for yourself or as a gift.

All perfume products consist of water, alcohol and aromatic substances. Depending on the ratio of these ingredients, perfumes are divided into the following groups:

perfume - Parfum or Perfume- This is the most concentrated type of perfume. The content of aromatic essences and essential oils in them reaches from 20 to 40% in 90% alcohol. Perfume has a pronounced, rich and persistent aroma with bright notes of trail that lasts for several days, so they are usually used in the cold season, mainly in the context of evening events. In hot weather, the aroma of perfume may seem too heavy;

eau de parfum - Eau De Parfum (EDP)- contains 15-20% aromatic substances in 90% alcohol. This product is also called day or toilet perfume. This concentration allows you to focus on pronounced heart notes. Eau de parfum is suitable for daytime use with careful, light application;

eau de toilette - Eau De Toilette (EDT) is a lightweight spray that was originally used as an affordable alternative to perfume. Today this product is considered the most popular type of perfume products. Eau de toilette contains 8-15% essential oils and other aromatic elements dissolved in 80% alcohol. This product has bright top and middle notes, but the trail nuances are only slightly felt. Good eau de toilette is universal, it can be used in winter and summer, day and evening, it is suitable even for hot climates or outdoor activities;

cologne - Eau De Cologne (EDC)- an even less concentrated type of perfume. This product contains up to 5% odorous substances dissolved in 70-80% alcohol. Typically, colognes are designed for men and have corresponding scents with fresh, marine or woody notes;

perfumed products for body care, which includes a wide variety of body care cosmetics that quote the basic aroma of eau de toilette - shower gel, moisturizing milk, nourishing cream and others. Such products are usually sold in a gift set with a bottle of perfume. Their purpose is to support the aromas of eau de toilette for women and increase the durability of their favorite scents. High-quality skincare cosmetics do not contain alcohol at all, so as not to dry out the skin, and the concentration of fragrant components in it is about 1%.

Types of eau de toilette

Sometimes it can be very difficult to understand which eau de toilette to choose for a young girl, and which scent is best for an elegant adult lady. To solve this issue, you need to have an idea of ​​the existing classifications of fragrances. This knowledge will give you the opportunity to choose your ideal scent for the rest of your life or, conversely, conduct successful experiments by choosing a new perfume or eau de toilette within your favorite family.

It is perhaps impossible to create a unified system of odors. Today, perfume companies sometimes invent synthetic aroma ingredients, and scent connoisseurs strive to fit them into existing schemes or reimagine them. In this article we will tell you about the system proposed in 1990 by the French Perfumery Committee (Comite Francais De Parfum), the entire variety of scents used in perfumery is divided into seven large groups or families:

citrus- the basis of these aromas are essential oils obtained from the zest of citrus fruits - orange, bergamot, tangerine and many others. Light and energetic, citrus eau de toilette for girls will perfectly complement your morning look and give your image freshness and vigor;

floral- they use essences extracted from fresh flowers: roses, jasmine, lilac. Such a delicate and romantic scent will create a seductive image, ideal for a first date;

woody- warm rich notes created on the basis of essential oils of various tree species: cedar, sandalwood, vetiver. These nuances are often used to create unisex perfumes; they will also organically complement a discreet office wardrobe;

eastern- spicy and tart scents created using animal notes - musk and amber, or classic spices - cinnamon, cloves, coriander. Such scents are more suitable for luxurious appearances in evening dresses;

leather- a relatively small family consisting of dryish tart aromas. These notes are used to create men's and women's perfumes. Leather scents go perfectly with laconic clothes in a men's style - a business suit or, on the contrary, a rocker biker jacket;

chypre- this group got its name in honor of the Mediterranean island of Cyprus and the perfume of the same name, created in 1917 by perfumer Francois Coty. In such perfumes you can catch notes of incense, oak moss and patchouli. Relaxed chypre perfume will perfectly complement a casual look;

wine glasses- complex aromas with notes of wood moss, lavender and coumarin. These warm scents are ideal for the cold season, as well as for everyday life and work.

Of course, this classification is very conditional. Most existing perfumes can be classified into several families. For example, a good eau de toilette from Lancome Tresor is considered an oriental floral scent, and its popular flanker Tresor Midnight Rose is a fruity floral scent.

Which is better - eau de toilette or perfumed

So, whose scent is more lasting - eau de toilette or perfumed water? On the one hand, it can be argued that eau de toilette is less persistent due to the lower concentration of aromatic essences. However, it happens that the smell of regular cologne lasts much longer than the aroma of perfume. It can be argued that it is not easy to clearly determine the durability of eau de toilette.

Firstly, longevity depends not only on the concentration of aromatic substances, but also on the ingredients used. It has been proven that the most persistent notes are oriental and woody, but light fruity nuances fade much faster.

Secondly, even the best eau de toilette for women reveals differently on different people. This concerns not only the expressiveness of the sound of individual notes, but also the durability in general. Sometimes it is impossible to predict how a perfume will behave on the skin - so before deciding on a purchase, you should listen to the aroma of the product on yourself.

But even if you no longer smell the perfume on yourself, you should not be upset - perhaps your nose is simply accustomed to the aroma. Ask friends or family to evaluate the smell a few hours after application - it is quite possible that other people can still smell it.

Composition of eau de toilette

It's no secret that expensive perfume or eau de toilette smell differently throughout the day. Subtle nuances, when mixed, create a unique composition with a delicate aftertaste. The best eau de toilette for women gives an excellent scent that gradually changes and appears in a new way after some time after application.

The idea of ​​a fragrance pyramid first appeared in the 19th century, when, with the development of perfumery, mono-aromas were replaced by more complex compositions of several ingredients. Master perfumers soon developed a theory about the scent pyramid, which helps them create the perfect perfume and predict how the scent will change over time after application. This concept is based on information about the evaporation rate of various essential oils and essences.

Traditionally, the aroma pyramid includes three steps:

top notes (“head”). Top notes are the opening chord, the first thing a person will feel when opening a bottle of eau de toilette. They open instantly and set the tone for the aroma during the first 10-20 minutes. As a rule, they make up about 20% of the total fragrant substance. Citrus or fruit scents are used as top notes - grapefruit, raspberry, honeysuckle;

middle notes (“heart”). The middle notes reveal themselves in all their glory after the top chords evaporate. The heart notes are also called the “core” of a fragrance because they represent its main character. These smells have a fairly long duration - up to 5 hours. As a rule, the heart range is very soft, it includes delicate flowers or tart oriental spices: rose, jasmine, coriander;

base notes (“base notes”). Middle notes gently help the scent trail, which makes up 40-50% of the entire aromatic composition, to sound. Mixing with the heart notes, the basic nuances reveal the fullness of the scent and remain on the skin for up to 8-10 hours, responsible for the “aftertaste” of the perfume. As a rule, the base notes are heavy, rich scents - amber, musk, vanilla, leather, and various resins.

Modern perfumers sometimes create innovative scents, experimenting with the traditional pyramid and making smells sound in an unusual sequence. However, most eau de toilette and perfume waters still have a classic structure. For example, La vie est belle eau de toilette for girls, created in 2012 by perfumers Olivier Polge, Dominique Ropion and Anne Flipo, boasts the following pyramid:

top notes are fruity: black currant and pear;

heart notes are iris, jasmine and orange blossom;

base - patchouli, tonka bean, vanilla and almond praline.

Such a complex, expressive composition sounds great on tender and dreamy young girls who love flirty dresses and sweet desserts.

How to use eau de toilette

Having chosen your ideal scent, you should figure out how to apply eau de toilette correctly, because inept use of perfumed products can not only ruin your thoughtful image, but also harm the aromatic product itself. To prevent this from happening, you must follow a few simple rules:

do not forget about hair and body hygiene - eau de toilette should be applied after a shower to clean and dry skin;

if you want to perfume your clothes, it is better to apply perfume from the wrong side to avoid stains;

do not spray eau de toilette on jewelry - the alcohol solution can harm your favorite earrings or chain;

Do not apply too much perfume - two or three sprays are enough.

Kobeleva Elizaveta

History of the creation of perfumes, classification, composition, raw materials for creating perfumes, tips for use.

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1. Introduction………………………………………………………………………………. 2
2. Main part………………………………………………………………………………………... 2

1. History of the creation of perfumery……..……………………………………………………..……….. 3

1. The history of the creation of perfumes…………………………………….………........................... 3
2. Classifications of fragrances………………………………………………………. 5
3. Fragrance structure……………………………………………………………………………… 7
4. Composition of perfume compositions……………………………………………………………………. 7
5. Composition of perfume…………………………………………………………………………………… 8

1. Raw materials of animal origin……………………………………………. 9
2. Raw materials of plant origin………………………………………. eleven

1. Practical part…………………………………………………………………………………. 16
2. Final part……………………………………………………………………………… 16
3. Literature………………………………………………………………………………... 17
4. Applications

№1………………………………………………………………………………………… 17

№2………………………………………………………………………………………… 17

№3………………………………………………………………………………………… 17

№4………………………………………………………………………………………… 17

1. INTRODUCTION

Perfume. Designated Parfum - they contain the largest percentage of the aromatic composition (from 15 to 30% or more) dissolved in very pure alcohol (96% vol.). The high content of the extract provides the perfume with much greater durability and strength compared to other types of perfume products. The high price of perfume oils on the world market, unfortunately, makes perfume the most expensive purchase possible. But the pleasure from using them is greater: the smell is more multifaceted and deep, the design and bottle are more beautiful, and, as a rule, perfumes last longer, since just a couple of drops are enough for the smell to last for 5 or more hours. In addition, perfumes rarely come in a spray bottle and, accordingly, are consumed more slowly. The only downsides to buying perfume are the price and the inconvenience of transportation (if the bottle is not a spray), but in general, this is, of course, the most sophisticated type of perfume product.

Subject of study:perfume ingredientsand their impact on human health.

Object of study:students of grades 10 and 11, as well as various brands of perfume.

Hypothesis: It is assumed that the use of perfume has a positive effect on the human body.

Purpose of the study:study the chemical composition of different types of perfumes and the effect of their components on the human body.

Research objectives:

1. Study the history of perfume creation.
2. Consider the classification and chemical composition of perfumes.
3. Develop and conduct a survey among students in grades 9–11.

Research methods:study of literary sources; survey; chemical experiment.

2. MAIN PART

2.1. History of perfume creation

Have any of you ever wondered where the history of perfume originates? It turns out that perfumery and the prerequisites for its appearance go back to Ancient Greece and even Ancient Egypt. It was then that they began to think about the purpose of odors, and began to use squeezes and extracts of herbs, flowers and other roots.

But we live in the modern world, so I think everyone would be interested to know what happened to perfume in the twentieth century. Of course, women's and men's perfumes are all mainly made in France. It was thanks to the French that perfumes became more than just perfumes. Women's perfume, perfumery in general, have become an important component of the image of any person. Now not only the aroma is important, but also the bottle and packaging. Let us note that designers work on the creation of packaging, and entire glass factories work together with perfumers. Crystal craftsmen in France come up with and bring to life more and more new packaging and bottles, making perfume an increasingly pleasant gift.

Recently, couturiers have also started creating fragrances. While working on clothing lines, at the same time, they manage to create the finest aromas and smells. You can now buy perfume from a famous couturier or an entire fashion house. One of the first female couturiers to release her fragrances was Gabrielle Chanel, in 1921. Chanel was the first perfume to contain aldehydes and various synthetic products, making their scent very intense. Men's perfume and perfumes for the stronger sex subsequently also began to be developed by many couturiers.

French perfumery reached its peak of development by the 50s of the 20th century. Such names as Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Carven, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Givenchy appear. It is safe to say that the most talented perfumers have worked and are working in France. Their works, all created perfumes, are designed to change the mood of both the one who uses them and those who surround the user. Perfume is a whole creation and art, which many perfumers work on to create.

Recently, the choice and assortment of perfumes is so rich that, without a doubt, everyone will choose the one and only scent for themselves. Today you can buy perfume not only in specialized stores, but all perfumes are offered in the online store. It all depends on your taste and wishes.

2.2 History of perfume creation

Perfumery was first used in Ancient Egypt. Most mentions of her were associated with gods and sacrifices. It is known for certain that perfumes were used in Biblical times - there are several references in the Bible to the use of aromatic oils.

The word "perfume" as we use it today comes fromlat. per fume , that is, through the smoke. Perfumery, or the art of creating perfume, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further developed in ancient Rome and Persia.

Although perfumes and perfumes also existed in India, most of their scents were based on incense. The earliest distillation of essential oil was mentioned in the text Harshacharita, written in the 7th century AD in North India. It also describes the use of aromatic eagle tree oil.

The first chemist whose name remains in history was, apparently, a woman namedTapputi , perfume maker: she was mentioned on a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She carried out repeated distillation of flowers, oils and calamus with other aromatic substances.

Archaeologists recently discovered what are believed to be the oldest spirits in the world in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfume was made more than 4,000 years ago. The perfume was discovered in an ancient perfume workshop. 60 finds, including stills, mixing vessels, pipes and perfume bottles, were found within the 4,000 square meter workshop. m. People in ancient times used herbs, flowers, as well as spices, almonds, coriander, myrtle, pine resins, bergamot.

The Arabian chemist al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote a book on perfumes in the 9th century, which he called “The Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations.” It contains more than a hundred recipes for aromatic oils, balms, aromatic waters and imitations of expensive medicines. The book also describes 107 methods and recipes for creating perfumes and equipment for producing perfumes, such as the alembic still, which still bears its ancient Arabic name.

The Persian physician and chemist Avicenna (Ibn Sina) carried out the process of extracting oils from flowers through distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with roses. Before his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oils and crushed herbs or petals that produced a strong scent. Rose water was more subtle and immediately became popular. Both raw materials and distillation technologies greatly influenced Western perfumery and the development of science, especially chemistry.

The knowledge of perfumery arrived in Europe as early as the 14th century, thanks in part to the spread of Islam. The Hungarians were the first to eventually produce the first modern perfumes. Made from aromatic oils mixed with alcohol, the first modern perfume was produced in 1370 for the Hungarian Queen Elizabeth and was known throughout Europe as Hungarian water. The art of perfumery flourished during the Renaissance in Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian products and developments were exported to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer René Florentine. His laboratory was connected to her apartment by a secret passage so that no formulas could be stolen along the way. France quickly became the European center for perfume and cosmetics production. The cultivation of flowers for perfume, which began in the 14th century, has developed into a leading industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance, perfume was used primarily by rich people to cover up body odor, which was strong because people rarely washed themselves. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were grown in the area around Grasse to provide raw materials for the growing perfume industry. And today France remains the center of perfume production and trade.

2.3 Classification of fragrances

Floral

A very common group that unites compositions in which the dominant note is a floral aroma. It is either alone or in a bouquet, with additional notes - fresh, fruity or forest. It is important to remember that floral perfumes with the same name created by different perfumers smell differently and have different shades. This is explained by the different individual attitudes of perfumers to a particular smell, depending on the taste and personality of the perfumer. Fragrances in this family include violet, carnation, rose, gardenia, lily, tuberose, and narcissus. This list is far from complete, since the world of flowers is huge, and each flower can become the basis for a fragrance. Examples of the most famous floral scents are Gucci Envy, Carolina Herrera 212 Silver, Angel Schlesser by Angel Schlesser, Christian Lacroix Eau Florale and Kenzo L eau Par Kenzo.

Eastern

The eastern group of fragrances most often contains notes of jasmine, gardenia, mandarin, freesia, and the final notes are shades of sandalwood, musk, amber and apricot. Often, oriental fragrances contain exotic flowers and spices, which gives these aromas unusualness and a sunny, sweet flavor inherent in the East. Famous oriental fragrances are Chanel Coco, Michel Klein Insomny O2, Narciso Rodriguez For Her, Lolita Lempicka L De Lolita Lempicka and Serge Lutens Arabie.

Woody

This family contains scents of sandalwood, rosebush, cedar, and vetiver. The woody subfamily is a group of marine woody scents that includes myrtle, musk and blue iris. Woody scents include Issey Miyake leau Dissey Summer Glimmer Fragrance, Yves Saint Laurent Kouros Tattoo Collector, Davidoff Cool Water Deep Sea Scents And Sun, Lacoste Lacoste Pour Homme, Chanel Chance and Paco Rabanne XS Extreme.

Citrus

Nothing invigorates and gives strength like the aromas of the citrus family. These scents contain lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, and bergamot. These scents are light and fresh in nature and are designed to lift the mood of their owner. There are many citrus scents known, but we will list the most famous: Louis Feraud Feraud Sunshine Eau Dete, Masaki Matsushima Mat Orange, Christian Dior Pure Poison, Mandarina Duck Mandarina Duck Man, Armand Basi Armand Basi In Blue and Sergio Tacchini O-Zone Woman.

Fougere or fern

This group received its name back in 1882, when the co-owner of the Houbigant company, Paul Parquet, created the fragrance Fougere Royale, translated as “Royal Fern”. This aroma became the prototype of all fougere scents. Parke used the recently synthesized substance coumarin, which resembles the aroma of freshly cut hay. The combination of synthetic coumarin, lavender and oak moss most often form the basis of fougere aromas. Naturally, fougere aromas have nothing to do with fern, which, in fact, does not smell of anything, but are so named because of their synthetic component. Famous fragrances from this family are Davidoff Cool Water Woman Frozen Fragrance, Sarah Jessica Parker Covet, Hugo Boss Hugo Boss No. 1, Ralph Lauren Polo Blue, Paco Rabanne Eau Paco Rabanne.

Chypre

The scents in this group have clean, fresh, slightly bitter scents and include notes such as sage, cistus, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, bergamot and resins. The name of the family comes from the island of Cyprus, and François Cotie was the first to use it, releasing a perfume with the same name back in 1917. Fragrances in this family include: Christian Dior Miss Dior, Jacomo Jacomo For Her, Paco Rabanne Ultraviolet Aquatic Plastic, Carolina Herrera 212 On Ice Men, Michael Jordan Michael Jordan. Once again we would like to note that we have given only a brief overview of the main families. In fact, the complete classification of fragrances is extensive. In addition to families, fragrances are also divided into subgroups, the characters of fragrances also have a classification, moreover, the world of perfumery is developing rapidly, due to which new subtypes of fragrances are constantly appearing, and it also happens that a new fragrance is difficult to fit into the existing framework. But still, our review of fragrance families will help you find the very fragrance that you have been looking for for so long.

2.4 Aroma structure

Classic perfume compositions are composed according to the principle of the triad: “starting note”, “heart note” and “ending note”. Over time, these three notes replace each other, and the character of the aroma changes - sometimes they say that the aroma “unfolds.”

The "top note" or "head" of the fragrance appears immediately after application of the perfume and remains in its pure form for about 10 minutes. The opening note consists of quickly evaporating perfume materials, such as citrus and herbal notes.

After about 30 minutes, the “heart note” arrives, which remains on the skin for several hours. This is the main and characteristic smell. This note is composed of materials that evaporate relatively slowly, which are mixed in the composition, complementing and shading each other.

After 12 hours, what remains is the "bottom note" or "base note", which is sometimes called the "base note" of the fragrance. It won't change until the scent disappears. The base note of a perfume is determined by substances with the lowest evaporation rate, which remain on the skin the longest. Clothes, especially woolen ones, that have been exposed to droplets of perfume can sometimes retain the scent of the base note for several months.

2.5 Composition of perfume compositions

More than three hundred natural and synthetic aromatic substances obtained from plant, animal and chemical raw materials are used to prepare perfume compositions.

On average, the composition includes from 15 to 60 or more different fragrant substances. Usually the composition makes up 10-25% of the mass of the perfume, in some perfumes - up to 50%.

Fragrances

Raw materials for fragrancesvegetable the origin is primarily the petalscolors , fruit , leaves , roots plants ether bearers . From them, by steam distillation and extraction, they obtainessential oils or with further thickening, “floral lipstick”.Pink , coriander , sandalwood oil used as independent fragrant substances. Patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, oak moss are used in the form of infusions. As a rule, substances of plant origin constitute the mainaromatic a lot of perfume.

Fragrant substances of animal origin are used only in the form of infusions to fix the aroma. These includeambergris , musk , castoreum And civet . Raw materials of animal origin are more expensive than other components, but it is its presence or absence that determines the level of quality of the perfume.

Chemically produced from substances of plant origin.synthetic fragrances . The raw materials for their production are, for example,coriander , sassafras , anise oil . This allows you to obtain aromas that have no analogues in nature.

Solvent

As a universalsolvent used ethanol very high concentration (up to 96%). A recently discovered and little-known, but very effective perfume solvent such as Masculon (a mixture of ethyl alcohol and a concentrated infusion of lungwort and valerian)

Dyes

Used in making perfumedyes . They are added to give the perfume liquid the necessarycolors , which usually does not affect its aromatic properties. Dyes are added in the form of aqueous solutions.

2.6 Composition of perfume

What would you say if you learned that an adorable little beaver can be used to obtain your favorite scent, or that you owe the greater aroma of perfume to the pouch on the abdominal cavity of a musk deer? Rest assured, the use of these products, which existed only a few years ago, is now strictly controlled and brought into line with the problem of species survival. However, they deserve attention in order to evaluate the contribution of synthetic fragrances and understand their role in fragrance composition.

Of course, flowers are most often used in perfumery, but it is not limited to them. Some parts of plants in everyday life intended for other purposes do not go unnoticed by perfumers.

Today the connection between flowers and perfume is obvious to everyone, but the use of the floral world in perfumery did not begin immediately. People had to show miracles of imagination and courage to replicate the “spirit of the plant” in a bottle in all its enchanting versatility.

While extraction of some flowers and plants is not possible, their roots make excellent oils. Perfumers use them in many combinations.

Perfume is an aromatic composition consisting of various proportions of essential oils. In simple words, perfume consists of alcohol, to which various extracts have been added and a fixative, which is usually of natural origin, has been added. The percentage composition is usually as follows: 15 - 20 percent is the perfume composition, which is dissolved in 90 percent alcohol. These mixtures are considered the most concentrated; they are also called perfumes abroad.
Perfume is the most expensive perfume pleasure. Since manufacturers often add such expensive essences to their composition, which are made from very rare or expensive types of flowers. This type of perfume is considered the most persistent, as their aroma is very highly concentrated.

2.6.1 Raw materials of animal origin

Ambergris

The sperm whale expels a hardened, fragrant product formed in the intestines called ambergris. It should not be confused with the odorless fossilized resin used in some jewelry. Collected by fishermen at sea, or by passers-by on beaches, ambergris disappears from the classical production cycle and is a rare product used in expensive perfumes.

Castoreum
The endocrine glands of the beaver secrete an oily substance, castoreum, with which the beaver impregnates the fur to protect it. The characteristic scent of castoreum is used in chypre compositions with notes of leather and tobacco.

Castoreum is an odorous secretion of the beaver's two internal glands; it is an oily, shiny substance with which the animal lubricates its fur to protect it from external irritants. The beaver is common in North America, Canada and Russia. The weight of the bags is about one hundred grams, and the size depends on the age of the animal. Castoreum is an excellent fixative in perfume compositions. It is used as an alcoholic infusion of crushed bags, or directly as a resinoid or absolute. Castoreum creates a warm, animalic note, close to the smell of leather, and perfumers use it in oriental, chypre compositions, as well as in men's perfumes.

Musk
The glands of the male musk deer contain grains of musk. Used as an infusion, musk gives the perfume a sensual note.

In perfumery, musk is an odorous secretion obtained from the glands of the male musk deer. The gland looks like a round or oval sac with a diameter of 3 to 8 cm, located under the skin in the abdomen. Musk deer, the owner of musk, is a ruminant animal of the roe deer family. It is found on the high plateaus of Asia (in the Himalayas, Central Asia). The animal, similar to an ordinary small roe deer weighing 10 kg, marks its territory with an odorous secretion. To protect the species, hunting was prohibited, and the export of musk was strictly regulated. Previously, in order to obtain musk deer glands, it was necessary to kill it. Then they tried to breed them, but in captivity the secretion stopped. The most harmless method was to cage the animal during the mating season, when musk is released, euthanize it, scrape out the bags and release it. To obtain 1 kg of musk, approximately 40 bags are required. Musk grains extracted from the bag are a substance with a strong ammonia, suffocating odor, similar in appearance toground coffee . After maturing in the form of an alcoholic infusion, the smell acquires an animalistic sensual note, giving the perfume fullness. Musk was very popular in Greek and Roman Antiquity, and then during the Renaissance, when, along with amber and incense, it was a favorite product of perfumers; today it is practically no longer used. Perfumers have replaced natural musk with synthetic musks, which are much less expensive.

Civet
The civet lives in Ethiopia. It has a sac near the gonads, which produces an ointment-like substance with a strong animal odor used in perfumery.

Sivet is the secretion of the endocrine glands of a small animal of the civet family weighing about 20 kg. The animals live in the southwestern provinces of Ethiopia, where they are increasingly being bred. Near the gonads they have a crescent-shaped sac, from which a secretion is released - a beige or brown, ointment-like soft mass with a very strong odor: it is obtained by scraping the sac. When mixed with other components of perfume compositions, the substance loses the sharpness of the smell and gives the perfume shades of animal warmth and sensuality.

2.6.2 Raw materials of plant origin

FLOWERS, PETALS, BUDS AND BUDS

Rose
For more than three thousand years, fragrance connoisseurs have chosen the rose among all flowers. Homer mentions rose oil, obtained by soaking the petals in olive oil, with which Aphrodite anointed Hector's body. Islamic perfumery pioneered the distillation of rose petals from Damascus. The Persian city of Shiraz has been famous since the 8th century for its rose water, which was exported until the 17th century. to Europe, India and China. In addition to culinary specialists and pharmacists, rose water was also valued by Western perfumers from the Renaissance to the 19th century. The Persian sultans outdid everyone by stuffing their mattresses with precious petals. Of the hundreds of known rose species, two botanical varieties are used in perfumery: Rosa centifolia, which is called May or Provence, native to Grasse and Morocco, and Rosa damascena, grown in Bulgaria and Turkey. From the rose centifolia in Grasse, a concrete is obtained by treating the petals with extraction with volatile solvents, then the absolute oil. Centifolia from Morocco and Turkish damascena are treated with both solvents and steam, the latter method allowing the essential oil to be extracted. As for the Bulgarian rose damascena, it only undergoes steam treatment. Picking roses is a very delicate matter. The worst enemy in this case is the sun, because... In hot weather the aroma is stronger, but not as delicate. That's why roses are picked at dawn, flower by flower, as quickly as possible. The largest amount of volatile substances in the flower accumulates around half past eight in the morning. An experienced worker gains from 5 to 8 kg of petals per hour, and the most active ones gain up to 50 kg per day. If this figure seems too high, then you need to know that to obtain one kilogram of essential rose oil you will need 5 tons of flowers! From what is collected per hour, a little more than 1 gram of essential oil is obtained. The oil is made up of almost 300 compounds, some of which are difficult to identify. This may explain the fact that, despite the success of synthesis, it has not yet been possible to completely copy this complex natural mixture. But we will not complain, because in addition to the beautiful plantations planted with roses and delighting our eyes, our sense of smell feels delightful fragrances, such as, for example, the Joy perfume of Jean Patou or the wonderful Paris of Yves Saint Laurent.

Rosa centifolia or May rose, one of two types of roses, is used in perfumery.
Every year, several kilograms of absolute oil, the most expensive in perfumery, are obtained from it.

In Grasse, the May rose is harvested once a year for three weeks.
Harvesting it is reminiscent of harvesting grapes: there are some productive years and some not so good ones.

Jasmine
Floral, warm, animalic, spicy, fruity: the list of jasmine scents is endless.

In Grasse, where all the flowers have their own name,
Jasmine is simply called "flower".
A species used in perfumery, jasmin grandiflorum. Probably native to Central Asia and Persia, this tree appeared in Grasse around 1560 thanks to Spanish sailors.
Today only a few plantations of less than 10 hectares remain in Grasse; Even such well-known companies as Patou and Chanel have difficulty negotiating with farmers who specifically grow jasmine for their compositions.
Jasmine also grows in Egypt, Italy, Morocco and India, where manual labor is cheaper. Jasmine is a summer flower and blooms from August to October. If jasmine production is small today, at the beginning of the century it was 200 tons per year and even reached almost 2 thousand tons between 1930 and 1940. When you know that you need 8 thousand flowers to produce 1 kg of jasmine, you can hardly imagine how much labor and seedlings are required to grow them. Like roses, jasmine is collected before sunrise for fear that dew and heat will spoil the precious white flowers. Flowers are picked one by one. A good picker picks about 700 grams of jasmine per hour. Then, as soon as possible, the flowers are sent to the factory, they are processed by extraction. 750 kg of flowers are required for 1 kg of absolute oil. In the thirties, some perfumes contained up to 10% absolute jasmine oil, today this figure has decreased: at best its content is 1-2%. Of all the white flowers, jasmine is the most widely used in perfumery. According to perfume creators, there cannot be a famous perfume without jasmine. Thanks to him, such classic fragrances as the timeless Chanel?5, Joy Patou, Agrede Lanvin, Fleur de fleurs Nina Ricci or First, Van Cleef appeared.

Jasmine is harvested at dawn. This is such a fragile flower
that only 700 grams are collected per hour.
And one kilogram of jasmine requires about 8 thousand flowers!

Tuberose
A flower with an intoxicating scent, Polianthes tuberosa or tuberose is native to Mexico. It was brought to France in the 17th century for breeding in Grasse. Tuberose was especially liked by the court of the Sun King, when beauties decorated their bodices with it. Today, most of the produce comes from the state of Karnataka in southeastern India, where it blooms all year round. Its scent is strong, warm, with balsamic undertones. In perfumery it is used for oriental compositions, such as, for example, Poison by Christian Dior.

Tuberose blooms all year round in Karnataka, a state in southeastern India.
However, flowers collected in July-August have
the most complete range of aromas.

Narcissus
A mountain flower with an unforgettable aroma, growing in the meadows of the Jura, the Alps and the Massif Central. In France there are about a dozen species of daffodil (jonquil). Narcissus poeticus is used in perfumery, a rather rare species that blooms in May. Leaves, stems and flowers are treated with extraction using solvents. The resulting absolute oil is reminiscent of the aroma of the flower, with a slightly greener note due to the processing of the stem. This is a very expensive product: for 1 kg of flowers they pay 10 francs, and for 1 kg of absolute oil you need 1200 kg of flowers. The smell of the resulting oil is very intense.

Narcissus, used in perfumery, grows at an altitude of thousands of meters
above sea level. An absolute oil is obtained from the flower and stem, which
goes very well with green notes and animal scents.

Mimosa
The homeland of mimosa is Australia, but it has taken root well in France. From the end of January to the beginning of March it covers the massifs of the Maritime Alps and the Var, to which it gives a beautiful summer color. In fact, the golden balls do not consist of petals, but of stamens, which explains their fragility. It is impossible to save mimosa cut more than 24 hours ago. Flowers and leaves are processed to produce an absolute oil, reminiscent of the aroma of the flower itself, soft and “tickling”. This flower is loved by the Anglo-Saxons, but it has never been used to create the main notes in compositions.

This is a winter flower without petals. The smell of mimosa is extremely rarely used
as the main note in perfume. Her absolute oil with warm, powdery and
floral range of aromas is included in compositions with a floral scent.
orange blossom
This is a flower of chastity; according to the Grasse tradition, garlands from it are given to newlyweds who get married during its flowering, in April-May. This is a Citrus aurantium amara flower, i.e. bitter orange, a tree native to southern China introduced to the Mediterranean during Roman times. By distilling the flowers, an essential oil is obtained, which is called neroli. The water remaining after this treatment is the famous orange blossom water. You can also obtain absolute oil from orange flowers by extraction with solvents. The oil yield is too small: from a ton of flowers, barely 1 kg of neroli is obtained. The leaves and branches of bitter orange are also processed and the essential oil is obtained , which is called petitgrain, and after processing (squeezing) the orange peel, an oil called bigarade is obtained.

An essential oil called neroli is obtained from bitter orange flowers.
named after the Duchess Orcini de neroli, who admired this smell in the 16th century.
Neroli is a product with a clean, fresh scent, with little warm
and animal shades, the basis of many colognes.

Lavender
Inextricably linked with Provence, but also with the smell of cleanliness emanating from laundry products, lavender is no longer in fashion for perfumery. An unfair fate for lavender, a plant with an interesting range of aromas. It is mistakenly believed that the beauty of the August hills of the Luberon and the plateaus of Manosque is the merit of lavender, in fact it is its hybrid: lavandin. Real lavender, used in perfumery, is lower, with a thinner stem, its cost is higher. It grows in the Alps at an altitude of over a thousand meters, but is especially common in Great Britain. At the beginning of the century, the British created two beautiful creations using the lavender note; this is English Iavender, Atkinson (1910), which was the first eau de toilette for

men and Old English Lavender, Yardley (1913), an absolutely essential addition to British tweeds. They were later succeeded by Caron's Pour un homme (1934). Today it is obvious that perfumers would no longer dare to produce perfumes with the characteristic aroma of lavender, invariably associated with the smell of washed clothes, but lavender is used in eau de toilettes for men as an initial scent note that gives freshness to the composition.

Lavender, very popular at the beginning of the century, is almost never used anymore.
in perfumes due to its widespread use in detergents and air fresheners.

ROOTS AND RHIZOOMS

Iris
Of the known 300 species of iris, perfumers are interested in only two: Iris pallida and Iris florentina, grown mainly in Morocco and the Florence region. Their rhizomes are used in perfumery. The smell of the oil differs from the smell of the flower and has a characteristic feature: after processing the rhizomes, it resembles the aroma of violets. Three years must be counted from the time of planting rhizomes to harvesting. It takes another three years to dry it and reach its fullest aroma. The roots are crushed, dipped in water and distilled. From one ton of iris, 2 kg of extremely expensive essential oil is obtained. The aroma of this wonderful product is subtle and very strong. It creates a long-lasting floral and woody note reminiscent of our great-grandmothers' rice powder. When people talk about iris scent, they mean the smell of oil from iris rhizomes.

Iris rhizomes are of interest for perfumery.
The best are grown in Florence, where they are dried.
Among other plants that use rhizomes, we highlight ginseng (Zingiber officinale), grown in China, India, Liberia and Jamaica. It is used mainly in cooking, while in perfumery the oil obtained by distillation is used. lovage (Levisticum officinale) is a tall grass that was cultivated by the Romans. From its roots, after distillation, an oil with a strong and warm scent is obtained, which works wonders in woody, oriental and spicy compositions. Perfumers also used the roots valerian (Valeriana officinalis) and roots caste , exported from Kashmir, which after distillation give an oil with a pronounced animal odor, but then the legislation prohibited its use. Finally, vetiver , whose botanical name is Andropogon squarrosus - but the Indians call it Kus Kus, is a cereal plant grown mainly in Haiti, India, Indonesia and Reunion Island. Its roots, when distilled, yield an essential oil, which is not only used in perfumes, but also to obtain vetiveryl acetate.

LEAVES, HERBS AND STEMMS
Geranium
Of the 250 varieties of geranium, perfumery chose only three, grown on the high plains of Reunion Island and on the banks of the Nile Delta in Egypt. Geranium essential oil, obtained after steam distillation, gives the compositions a very pleasant floral shade. The peculiarity of this oil is that it contains chemical compounds that can be found in rose essential oil, and gives the compositions a note of rose.

Geranium leaves, not flowers, are used in perfumery.
On Reunion Island and in Egypt the mostthe best varieties of geraniums, different from thosethat decorate our gardens
Patchouli
The famous "flower power" hippie scent of the 70s comes from patchouli oil, which is derived from the dried leaves of Pogostemon cablin, grown in Indonesia. Patchouli has a very unusual smell, camphorous, earthy and woody at the same time.
Violet
Violet leaves (Viola odorata) are used. Extraction with solvents produces an absolute oil with a floral scent and a strong green note. Violet was widely used at the beginning of modern perfumery (Vera Violetta, Roger and Galle, 1892, Violette pourpre, Ubigan, 1907). Currently, it is often used as a fixative for other components.

3. Practical part

Students from grades 9 to 11 took part in the survey.During the survey, 47 people were interviewed.

From the data obtained, most students use perfume. This indicates that students care about their appearance.

4. Final part

Based on the results of the study, the following conclusions can be drawn:

• Their durability depends on the composition of the perfume.
• You need to choose a perfume with a scent that suits you.

5.Literature

• Internet resources
• Perfumery magazines.

6.Applications

№1

1. Do you wear perfume?
2. What brands of perfume do you prefer?
3. What scent do you prefer?

Slide captions:

Chemical composition of perfume. Completed by a student of class 8 “A” Kobeleva Elizaveta

Purpose of the study: to study the chemical composition of different types of perfumes and the effect of their components on the human body. Object of study: students in grades 10 and 11, as well as various brands of perfume.

Research objectives: To study the history of the creation of perfumes. Consider the classification and chemical composition of perfumes. Develop and conduct a survey among students in grades 9–11.

History of perfume creation Have any of you ever wondered where the history of perfume originates from? It turns out that perfumery and the prerequisites for its appearance go back to Ancient Greece and even Ancient Egypt. It was then that they began to think about the purpose of odors, and began to use squeezes and extracts of herbs, flowers and other roots. But we live in the modern world, so I think everyone would be interested to know what happened to perfume in the twentieth century. Of course, women's and men's perfumes are all mainly made in France. It was thanks to the French that perfumes became more than just perfumes. Women's perfume, perfumery in general, have become an important component of the image of any person. Now not only the aroma is important, but also the bottle and packaging. Let us note that designers work on the creation of packaging, and entire glass factories work together with perfumers. Crystal craftsmen in France come up with and bring to life more and more new packaging and bottles, making perfume an increasingly pleasant gift.

History of the creation of perfumery Recently, couturiers have also started creating fragrances. While working on clothing lines, at the same time, they manage to create the finest aromas and smells. You can now buy perfume from a famous couturier or an entire fashion house. One of the first female couturiers to release her fragrances was Gabrielle Chanel, in 1921. Chanel was the first perfume to contain aldehydes and various synthetic products, making their scent very intense. Men's perfume and perfumes for the stronger sex subsequently also began to be developed by many couturiers. French perfumery reached its peak of development by the 50s of the 20th century. Such names as Lanvin, Schiaparelli, Carven, Christian Dior, Nina Ricci, Givenchy appear. It is safe to say that the most talented perfumers have worked and are working in France. Their works, all created perfumes, are designed to change the mood of both the one who uses them and those who surround the user. Perfume is a whole creation and art, which many perfumers work on to create. Recently, the choice and assortment of perfumes is so rich that, without a doubt, everyone will choose the one and only scent for themselves. Today you can buy perfume not only in specialized stores, but all perfumes are offered in the online store. It all depends on your taste and wishes.

History of perfume creation Perfumery was first used in Ancient Egypt. Most mentions of her were associated with gods and sacrifices. It is known for certain that perfumes were used in Biblical times - there are several references in the Bible to the use of aromatic oils. The word "perfume" we use today comes from the Latin. per fumum, that is, through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of creating perfume, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further developed in ancient Rome and Persia. Although perfumes and perfumes also existed in India, most of their scents were based on incense. The earliest distillation of essential oil was mentioned in the text Harshacharita, written in the 7th century AD in North India. It also describes the use of aromatic eagle tree oil. The first chemist whose name remains in history was apparently a woman called Tapputi, a perfume maker: she was mentioned on a cuneiform tablet of the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia. She carried out repeated distillation of flowers, oils and calamus with other aromatic substances. Archaeologists recently discovered what are believed to be the oldest spirits in the world in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfume was made more than 4,000 years ago. The perfume was discovered in an ancient perfume workshop. 60 finds, including stills, mixing vessels, pipes and perfume bottles, were found within the 4,000 square meter workshop. m. People in ancient times used herbs, flowers, as well as spices, almonds, coriander, myrtle, pine resins, bergamot.

History of the creation of perfumes The Arabian chemist al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote a book on perfumes in the 9th century, which he called “The Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations.” It contains more than a hundred recipes for aromatic oils, balms, aromatic waters and imitations of expensive medicines. The book also describes 107 methods and recipes for creating perfumes and equipment for producing perfumes, such as the alembic still, which still bears its ancient Arabic name. The Persian physician and chemist Avicenna (Ibn Sina) carried out the process of extracting oils from flowers through distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with roses. Before his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oils and crushed herbs or petals that produced a strong scent. Rose water was more subtle and immediately became popular. Both raw materials and distillation technologies greatly influenced Western perfumery and the development of science, especially chemistry. The knowledge of perfumery arrived in Europe as early as the 14th century, thanks in part to the spread of Islam. The Hungarians were the first to eventually produce the first modern perfumes. Made from aromatic oils mixed with alcohol, the first modern perfume was produced in 1370 for the Hungarian Queen Elizabeth and was known throughout Europe as Hungarian water. The art of perfumery flourished during the Renaissance in Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian products and developments were exported to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer René Florentine. His laboratory was connected to her apartment by a secret passage so that no formulas could be stolen along the way. France quickly became the European center for perfume and cosmetics production. The cultivation of flowers for perfume, which began in the 14th century, has developed into a leading industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance, perfume was used primarily by rich people to cover up body odor, which was strong because people rarely washed themselves. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were grown in the area around Grasse to provide raw materials for the growing perfume industry. And today France remains the center of perfume production and trade.

Chemical composition of perfume Perfume is an aromatic composition consisting of various proportions of essential oils. In simple words, perfume consists of alcohol, to which various extracts have been added and a fixative, which is usually of natural origin, has been added. The percentage composition is usually as follows: 15 - 20 percent is the perfume composition, which is dissolved in 90 percent alcohol. These mixtures are considered the most concentrated; they are also called perfumes abroad. Perfume is the most expensive perfume pleasure. Since manufacturers often add such expensive essences to their composition, which are made from very rare or expensive types of flowers. This type of perfume is considered the most persistent, as their aroma is very highly concentrated.

Varieties of aroma Floral A very common group that unites compositions in which the dominant note is a floral aroma. It is either alone or in a bouquet, with additional notes - fresh, fruity or forest. Oriental The oriental group of fragrances most often contains notes of jasmine, gardenia, mandarin, freesia, and the final notes are shades of sandalwood, musk, amber and apricot. Woody This family contains aromas of sandalwood, rosebush, cedar, and vetiver. The woody subfamily is a group of marine woody scents that includes myrtle, musk and blue iris. Citrus Nothing invigorates and gives strength like the aromas of the citrus family. These scents contain lemon, tangerine, grapefruit, and bergamot. Fougere or fern This group received its name back in 1882, when the co-owner of the Houbigant company, Paul Parquet, created the fragrance Fougere Royale, translated as “Royal Fern”. This aroma became the prototype of all fougere scents. Chypre Fragrances in this group have clean, fresh, slightly bitter scents and include notes such as sage, cistus, labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli, bergamot and resins.

Fragrance structure Classic perfume compositions are composed according to the principle of a triad: “initial note,” “heart note,” and “end note.” Over time, these three notes replace each other, and the character of the aroma changes - sometimes they say that the aroma “unfolds.” The "top note" or "head" of the fragrance appears immediately after application of the perfume and remains in its pure form for about 10 minutes. The opening note consists of quickly evaporating perfume materials, such as citrus and herbal notes. After about 30 minutes, the “heart note” arrives, which remains on the skin for several hours. This is the main and characteristic smell. This note is composed of materials that evaporate relatively slowly, which are mixed in the composition, complementing and shading each other. After 12 hours, what remains is the "bottom note" or "base note", which is sometimes called the "base note" of the fragrance. It won't change until the scent disappears. The base note of a perfume is determined by substances with the lowest evaporation rate, which remain on the skin the longest. Clothes, especially woolen ones, that have been exposed to droplets of perfume can sometimes retain the scent of the base note for several months.

Composition of perfume compositions To prepare perfume compositions, more than three hundred natural and synthetic aromatic substances obtained from plant, animal and chemical raw materials are used. On average, the composition includes from 15 to 60 or more different fragrant substances. Usually the composition makes up 10-25% of the mass of the perfume, in some perfumes - up to 50%. Fragrant substances The raw materials for fragrant substances of plant origin are primarily flower petals, fruits, leaves, and roots of essential plants. From them, essential oils are obtained by steam distillation and extraction or, with further thickening, “flower lipstick”. Rose, coriander, and sandalwood oils are used as independent aromatic substances. Patchouli leaves, coriander seeds, oak moss are used in the form of infusions. As a rule, substances of plant origin make up the main aromatic mass of perfumes.

Composition of perfume compositions Fragrant substances of animal origin are used only in the form of infusions to fix the aroma. These include amber, musk, castoreum and civet. Raw materials of animal origin are more expensive than other components, but it is its presence or absence that determines the level of quality of the perfume. Synthetic aromatic substances are produced chemically from substances of plant origin. As raw materials for their production, for example, coriander, sassafras, and anise oil are used. This allows you to obtain aromas that have no analogues in nature. Solvent Ethyl alcohol of very high concentration (up to 96%) is used as a universal solvent. A recently discovered and little-known, but very effective perfume solvent is Masculon (a mixture of ethyl alcohol and a concentrated infusion of lungwort and valerian). Dyes Dyes are used in the manufacture of perfumes. They are added to give the perfume liquid the required color, which usually does not affect its aromatic properties. Dyes are added in the form of aqueous solutions.

Class Used (%) Not used (%) 9 17.3 83.7 10 28.3 71.7 11 55.5 44.5

Firm 9th grade (%) 10th grade (%) 11th grade (%) Avon 34.8 12.3 12.4 Chanel 28.7 16.9 17.8 Happy 10 51.8 61.2 Elle 55.6 39, 4 30

Aroma 9th grade (%) 10th grade (%) 11th grade (%) Oriental 54.6 - 65.4 Citrus - 42.5 13.5 Floral 68.9 87.5 88.8

Conclusions Their durability depends on the composition of perfumes. You need to choose a perfume with a scent that suits you.